Split, Croatia - July 16, 2009

Split, Croatia July 16, 2009

Came to Split on a tender, as the ship could not dock because of passenger ferries and private boats, too numerous due to tourist season and them having priority. The tender boats, pick us up and transport us along with some dolphin-suited Phillipinos to the old city and Diocletian's palace. There a very sweet, pretty tour guide shows us the palace, still inhabited.

We enter from the palace's southern entrance which faces the ocean. Diocletian built it as a retirement place after being expelled from the "Rule of Four" by his sons in law. He lived there for 11 years. He had an affinity for the location having been born not far away. The lower level "basement" was used for storing food supplies. The city was partitioned along the Roman plan into four quadrants, bisected by two main streets. The Baptistery of St. John is built on what was then Jupiter's temple.

Croatia is on the kouna currency, not yet part of the EU. It is the birthplace of the krovat, or what would evolve to become the modern men's tie. According to legend, the krovat was tied around soldiers' necks. This is now exploited by a host of tie shops, where I bought one with Dalmatian's on it, for double-reference. Inside the store, there is a flower pattern marking the intersection of the two ancient thoroughfares.

While in the old town, we visit the Jewish quarter and knock on the synagogue's door but there's no answer. We proceed to one of the restaurants, where the waiter demonstrates the catch of the day. I overpower a platter of two bronzini, mussels, and shrimp really meant for two people. We walk through the town's market, offering everything from meat to produce and I buy the best apple strudel I've ever had. We stop by the Internet cafe, charging twenty kouna for an hour of access, about a tenth of what our ship charges.

The smell of lavender is everywhere, with the stall keepers screaming "Lavanda ! Lavanda !" Shayna buys some satchels of lavender, and some of Croatia's famous cherry brandy.